Fly Me to Bourgogne and Let Me Play Among the Stars

Le Montrachet

In my much younger days, I was smitten with Chassagne-Montrachet, drink of choice; now when I look back, I must have come off as a complete and ridiculous snob.  I had studied wine in Bordeaux, so that was my universe at the time, Margaux, St Estephe,  Pommerol, and Medoc. I hadn’t even been to Bourgogne. I cannot even imagine now walking into wine bar and just asking for a glass.

Fast forward and I did home in on Bourgogne as a region shortly thereafter. And nowhere is the idea of terrior more prized than in this patchwork of vineyards, which are truly small parcels, extremely diverse; with more than 100 appellations, 4000 producers and each plot is lovingly tended. If I am correct there are 1247 climats; climats are the special nuances of the region.  A “climat” is the name for a specific vineyard site combining vine plots, grape variety, distinct character, and winemaker know-how. The local saying is, don’t look up but, down.

Basically, just two grape varieties shape this landscape, chardonnay and pinot noir. But again, it is the terrior that changes everything in the glass. Here it is the village names Chassagne-Montrachet, Mersault, Volnay and Pommard that make many wine-lovers tingle.  Take for instance that the adjacent villages of Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet both share some of the best white wine slopes. And both lie along the Cote de Beaune. Chassagne is a bit larger and more southerly. Also, Chassagne is better known for its earthy reds but, Puligny’s vineyards are totally dedicated to white grapes. The terriors of both Puligny and Chassagne are sufficiently hearty enough to be aged in new wood, perceived as a way to enhance the wine’s complexity rather than a flavor component. One sip will tell you that these are subtle wines with a finish that lingers with persistence.

There are many superb wines in Puligny, but few bargains. Chassagne in contrast, has a greater number of small growers and they are slightly less expensive and a good value. To splurge on wine from the Côte d’Or, either north or south takes a toll on the wallet, but you can’t go wrong.  A premium Meursault or Montrachet promises to be delicious.   The legendary 'Le Montrachet' vineyard is where some of the world's finest French wines are produced less than 20 minutes north of Beaune.  And when the opportunity showed itself, I swooped in for a refresher course.

In the 12^th century the monks planted the first vines near the hamlet of Blagny, a mile north of Puligny-Montrachet. Today Puligny-Montrachet is among the finest wine-producing villages in the world, if not the finest when it comes to white wine. Puligny is just 235 hectres; 21 are Grand Cru and 100 hectres are Premier Cru. But in this small compact area there are more distinctions, a total of five grand crus in Puligny-Montrachet – Chevalier-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, and Le Montrachet. The village shares both Le Montrachet and Bâtard-Montrachet with the neighboring Chassagne-Montrachet. To get a scope of this small community with a population hovering just at 400, it is 2.8 square miles under some undulating hills along the D974, blink and you will miss the turn-off.

Le Montrachet not just a coveted bottle of wine, but a 19^th century village inn with the quiet elegance expected at a royal’s country estate. The Como group opened Le Montrachet in April 2023 choosing the most renowned wine destination to add their award-winning group. The Como hotels-resorts have a deep commitment to exceptional cuisine and inspiring destinations that honor the spirit of place. Their hospitality is tops in the industry and I have enjoyed visits to many of their properties. So, it was typical to walk in and breathe a sigh of “I have arrived.”  This was punctuated by a glass of Puligny-Montrachet brought by the butler to the lounge as you settle in.

This unique property is actually three different heritage buildings (hotel, residence and villa) around a fountain filled town square. There are 30 rooms and suites, my room is a charming suite in vine color tones. My windows opened to tile roof tops and a sunset over the vines in the distance. A bottle of Montrachet and still warm gougères were with a personal note welcoming me back. Again, inimitable hospitality always makes guests feel special.

This hotel is a celebration of French gastronomy, wine and style. Chef Romain Versino, who has guided the farm-to-fork dining from opening and received a Michelin star within months offers seasonal menus. Thus, I had to indulge in their 8-course dinner from Foie Gras, scallops with salsify and lemon, the local black leg chicken with truffles, to a pear with smoked vanilla; it was swoon worthy. What I truly loved were the list of local French producers and farmers. They got a full page on the menu just like the world-famous wines that you are surrounded by. A personal favorite was the smoked butter from the master himself, Jean-Yves Bordier, it was knee weakening with the lightest brioche I ever ate.

My sunrise walk around town, left me checking every alley and path, looking in all the windows of the winemakers, and finally it takes me into the base of the low hills. These hills hold the secrets and stories. First Montrachet means bald mountain, though there are no mountains here. From Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet is within comfortable walking distance a little over 1 mile. This is a nice way to see all the grand crus up close. Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet is the first grand cru you come across as you stroll along the vines towards Chassagne-Montrachet. Surrounded by Bâtard-Montrachet on two sides, village vines on one side and the premier cru Les Pucelles just across the road to the north. Ownership is split between a dozen or so proprietors and the average annual output is less than 2000 cases. I have read that the name dates back to the 19^th century when the vines were farmed en metayage by ‘outside workers’ referred to as Les Bienvenues. 

Further uphill you see the often-photographed arch and stonewall surrounding the Clos des Chevalier. This part of Chevalier-Montrachet is a monopole that has belonged to Domaine Jean Chartron in Puligny-Montrachet since 1917. The whole of Chevalier-Montrachet is stretched out above Le Montrachet. So now to the stories of my surrounding vineyards. History always provides us with family “stories” as this one is about the Lord of Montrachet’s eldest son who was off in the Holy Lands during the Crusades. Papa dallied with some local unattached maiden and another son came forth. So, the eldest son was nicknamed Chevalier Montrachet (meaning knight) and the younger was called Bâtard Montrachet. (meaning bastard in French), referring to a child born out of wedlock. Unfortunately, when his first-born died in the Holy Land, the lord was forced to appoint his illegitimate son as his successor, greeted by a chorus of ‘Bienvenue au Bâtard Montrachet‘ (Welcome to the Montrachet bastard). I am sure there are multiple versions and probably more fruit on the family tree.

Though it was too early to see if the flavors carried some of the story line, I thought these legends would add a little mirth to my afternoon of wine tasting of these stars. Both the wines and the vineyards of this appellation are the most rarefied in all the fine wine stratosphere. Such stardom comes at a price but well worth it!

Le Montrachet is an ideal getaway for oenophiles and wine connoisseurs.

Luxury Puligny Montrachet Hotel | COMO Le Montrachet