We have lost two amazing historic spires recently. Who can forget in Paris April 15th, 2019, when we all stood agape as within one hour of the fire spreading to the wooden roof of Notre Dame, the magnificent giant 295-foot-high spire collapsed engulfed in vicious flames? Rest assure the iconic symbol of 850 years of history will be rebuilt, piece by piece as it once was.
And on April 16th just four years later almost to the day, Denmark's historic stock exchange building (1625) in the center of Copenhagen was engulfed by fire. As one of the city's oldest buildings, onlookers gasped as its iconic dragon spire tumbled into the street below. The famous spire featured four dragons whose tails were twisted into a spear and topped with three crowns, symbolizing Denmark’s unity and cooperation with neighbors Norway and Sweden.
I was always so curious about the building of this somewhat fanciful spire, since it was Danish, Hans Christiaan Anderson stories came to mind. But it was the design of the King Christian IV’s Fireworks Master who fashioned the 184-foot spire out of wood with a lead coating.
Actually, France has about 70 mysteriously twisted towers too. Whether this is fortuitous or inadvertent I was in the Loire Valley where there are a good number of these historical towers poke skyward. In a little-known area of Pays de la Loire, le Baugeois in Maine-et-Loire, there are no fewer than six within a 10-mile radius of Baugé-en-Anjou. This was enough for me to want to go and see them for myself.
There are what may or not be called bell towers as there aren’t many with bells in them. But they are definitely called “clochet tordu” which translates to twisted bell and not twisted church steeple. A mystery perhaps or does it go deeper than whimsical carpenters who went to work making architectural acrobatics. Did they deliberately turned their church spikes by an eighth or a sixteenth of a turn? Were they designing them to stand out? Or was it accidental? Some surmise uncured or green wood, others speak of forceful strong winds and yet, others talk of whispered legends of devil's tails were passed down family to family. No one seems to have a definitive answer.
I can see that there could be some "accidental" twisted bell towers. The woodwork, the bad weather and the sagging of the framework under the weight of the slate and bell may explain this charming defect. Remember that they were up to 150 feet to the top. Some are actually askew, looking like a witch’s hat. Unfortunately, detailed architectural plans from the medieval period are rare, as many were either lost over time or never formally documented. However, these towers were typically constructed using traditional timber framing techniques, with skilled craftsmen shaping the wood to create the twisted effect.
The plans are numerous: octagonal, hexagonal, pentagonal or even in a square pyramid. Roofing materials do not consist only of slates, it is possible to find steeples covered with tiles, wood shingles or even metal such as copper, zinc or lead. The direction of rotation also differs from one to another. In France, the vast majority of bell towers turn from left to right.
The Saint Sauveur church in Rochechouart is a beautiful Romanesque church built in the eleventh century and modified in the thirteenth century, is characterized by its octagonal bell tower of the fourteenth century, topped by a rare spiral arrow dating from the eighteenth. As this was a popular stopover for Compostela pilgrims on their way to Rocamadour; I was pondering if this design could have been spread by the pilgrims along the way. But that doesn't hold water as they are not just along the routes. So, I guess they will remain a mystery for me to explore.
Many of these twisted towers are at least 400 years old, therefore the difficulties encountered for the maintenance and safety of these very special towers, but also the solutions to enhance this exceptional architectural heritage. There is actually an Association des Clochers Tors d’Europe who oversee these unique structures. Working with a very important very French resource, Compagnons du Devoir. Initiated in 1943, the Workers' Association of the Compagnons du Devoir et du Tour de France set up a College of Trades. Since then, it has continued to develop and evolve to meet the pedagogical and technical challenges related to training and professions in 14 different areas, especially in historical carpentry methods they have a long history dating back to medieval times.
And yes, the rebuilding of Notre Dame Cathedral's spire is indeed involving the Compagnons du Devoir. This association is known for its highly skilled craftsmen. These artisans are renowned for their expertise in traditional crafts such as stonemasonry and carpentry. Their involvement includes working on the intricate wooden framework of the cathedral, often referred to as “the forest” due to its complexity and the amount of oak used
Planners scoured France’s forests with drones to spot tall-enough trees with few deformities. Eight of the largest trees were taken from the forests of Bercé, in France’s Loire region. These oaks were planted during Louis XIV’s reign (1643–1715), when the famed Sun King was working to expand his navy and needed wood for his ships’ masts. The trees naturally grow with a slight curve, making them ideally suited for their destination as the bulk of the reconstructed wooden spire.
Perhaps the next time I'm in Paris, I will need to meet up with one of the craftsman at the site to find out if they know the secret to the twisted spires.
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