Hiding the largest medieval Tapestry

Chateau d' Angers

Castles in the Loire Valley hold many of treasures.  Architecturally like the double-helix staircase at Chambord; the two separate staircases that intertwined like a DNA strand, accredited to the master Leonardo da Vinci. Chateau de Chenonceau, a Renaissance masterpiece that spans the Cher River, built for an infamous lover. Amboise Castle sitting 130 feet above the Loire River was home to Kings and Queens of France with a secret passage underground to Clos Luce.  There are over 300 Chateaux scattered through the Loire Valley, some fairytale, some fortress and others just strongholds; yet each has a story to tell.

One castle that just sneaks into the top 20 is Chateau d’Angers, originally built in the 10^th century constructed to defend the region of Anjou from Norman invaders. Its unique strategic location this fortress received 17 imposing towers creating an impenetrable fortress above the Maine River. It stands as tall and strong today in the middle of the city of Angers. Known as a small green city and desirable place to live with 150 thousand Angevins and only an hour and a half from Paris.

Angers feels calmer than many of the Loire towns, the old streets are full of half-timbered houses, small cafes, lots of students from the university and very easy to walk about. So even if it’s a historic town, the place feels vibrant. Angers hold a significant place in history for England; it was the seat of the Plantagenet dynasty for over 300 years of English monarchs; from Henry II in 1154 to Richard III in 1485. This is what plunged the two nations into the Hundred Years War.

The Duchy of Anjou was reclaimed by the French crown, and Angers became a wealthy region and center of cultural life during the 15^th and 16^th century. La Chateaux d’Angers looks over the road as you arrive as if it is still keeping watch. With 17 commanding shale and limestone towers and nearly a third of a mile of ramparts the castle is the leading landmark in the city. Since 1230 this fortress, prison, palace and barracks has played many roles over time. I found it so charming at sunset as the evening colors streamed through some of her ruins, overlooking the Maine river and town below, you can totally understand the value of the vantage point.

I was in the city to explore the vineyards in the surrounding area. Thanks to the Monks starting in the Middle-Ages each monastery had their own vineyards in the Loire Valley and gained a good reputation concentrated around Angers and Saumur. The vineyards spread along the banks of the Loire to its tributaries- Maine, Aubance, Layon, and Thouet.  The Anjou vineyards are renowned for their sparkling white and rose Cremant de Loire.

I was within the castle's walls attending a welcome party with the mayor and dignitaries with a glass of Rose d’Anjou, what else? We were invited to visit the basement at our leisure. The basement? I thought I must have misheard what was said. But evidentially I did go down the darkened stairs and turned the corner only to be gobsmacked!

What I was facing was a huge room hanging 460 feet of an awe-inspiring medieval tapestry in vibrant colors. The stunning ‘Apocalypse tapestry’ depicting the Book of Revelations was commissioned by Louis I, Duke de Anjou in 1375. This massive set of tapestries featured 90 scenes of dark times when war and pestilence was rife.  Though part of the tapestry was destroyed during the French Revolution, the majority of the tapestry has been preserved and survived for 650 years. I had no idea that these majestic panels were hiding here. These are the world’s largest surviving medieval set of tapestries and received UNESCO World Heritage recognition in May 2023.

This incredible artifact is a woven biblical manuscript in wool threads. Weavers in Paris used horizontal looms to create the massive artistic masterpieces. They used the ‘reverse weaving’ technique to ensure a perfect finish on both sides, requiring extreme patience. It took seven years of dedicated expertise and labor.

The history of the Apocalypse Tapestry is a journey through time and resilience. This medieval treasure has survived centuries of war, revolution and total neglect but shines today as a testament to the skill of 14^th century French artists. An unforgettable experience to stand before the panels for any history lover.

Lesson learned! A lot of people pass through Angers without stopping but this one deserves a stop – a calm and charming town with a masterpiece hiding below ground in its cool, dark gallery. Plus, they have so many marvelous wines to experience.